{Cabinet Door} Snack Tray

We resisted letting the kids bring food up into the game room for a long time.  Then last Christmas, we added a TV to the room so the kids could watch their movies upstairs, and I wouldn’t be subjected to endless hours of “Good Luck, Charlie” or Mindcraft on the weekends.  But who can have a movie without popcorn?  Apparently, not my kids.  So when I let them start bringing food up into the game room, I was on a mission to figure out where they could put it.  I didn’t want a coffee table, because it would take up too much space.  Then I found these little guys…

Yep.  Lowe’s was clearancing (is that even a word?) them out for $2 each!  I loved them, and knew just what to do with them.  So I snagged a few, and went home to rummage around my woodpile.

About a year ago, we rescued these cabinet doors from the curbside trash.  They were water damaged, but I knew I could do something with them.  Sadly, they sat in the garage for a year.  When I brought home those cute little tulip bun feet, I knew this would be the perfect table top.

I removed the hinges from the door.  Then I took an old closet pole I had lying around and cut two pieces to fit inside the holes left by the hinges.  I glued them in and sanded them up.

When I got the feet under the table, I realized I wanted the tray a little taller.  I had some scrap 4×4 post pieces laying around, so I cut them into squares and rounded off the edges with my belt sander.  Then I drilled a hole in the middle to accomodate the screw in the top of the bun foot.

I cut the apron pieces from some scrap 1×3 (yes, I have a huge scrap pile in my garage), and attached them to the leg blocks with wood glue and pocket hole screws.  I found Ana White’s plans for her Turned Leg Coffee Table really helpful here.  There was some math involved, which initially made my head hurt, but it all worked out in the end.

Then we used glue and clamps to attach the tulip bun feet to the 4×4 blocks.  We let the glue dry overnight with the clamps on.

When it was time to put it all together, we used pocket hole screw and wood glue to attach the frame to the cabinet door.  This required some muscle because the cabinet trim was made of hardwood, and apparently my math wasn’t as good as I thought it was.  Because I didn’t check to make sure everything was completely square, it took two of us to get the top screwed on.  :-)

Now, here’s the really important part…  Sand that baby really well.  Sometimes, owners will use an oil (think Murphy’s Oil Soap or lemon oil) of some type to clean and protect their cabinets.  If there is any oil residue, it will prevent the paint from adhering to the wood.  I *thought* I did a pretty good job of this, but some of my paint peeled up, and I had to go back and sand the top again.  Don’t skimp here–even if you are using a primer which says it will stick to anything (which I did).  SAND, SAND, SAND!

Once the tray was all sanded and wiped down, we primed the whole thing with Zinsser Cover Stain.  I really like this primer, but I’ve had good results with Kilz, too.  Just be sure to use some sort of primer.  You can see the water damage in the above photo.  While the damage is still there, the primer helped to minimize it.  I sprayed two coats of primer on, sanding with a fine grit sanding block in between coats.

After the primer was dry, I taped off the center of the top and put it up on “blocks.”  Then I applied several coats of Rustoleum spray paint in Heirloom White.  If you sand in between coats, you’ll get a pretty smooth finish.

Because this tray is going in my game room, I wanted it to have a “vintage-y” feel.  I applied my favorite Ralph Lauren glaze in Smoke to the whole thing and wiped it down with an old sock.  I know, I know.  Home Depot doesn’t sell Ralph Lauren paints anymore.  I’ve had this forever, so I can’t vouch for any alternatives, but I hear Valspar makes a nice glaze, which you could probably get similar results from.

I liked the finish on my cup organizer so much, that I used the Minwax finishing wax again.  You just wipe in on with a cheesecloth, wait 15 minutes, and buff it out.  So easy, and it leaves a beautiful hard finish.

At this point, I had a bit of a paint fiasco, which I’ll detail another time.  In the end, though, I got the best results from the Rustoleum chalkboard paint in a spray can.  Make sure your surface is primed, tape off the rest of the tray, and spray it on.  It is ready to use in 24 hours.

Before you use your chalkboard for the first time, make sure to season it.  Rub the side of a piece of chalk all over your board, then wipe off all the chalk.  This will prevent your images from “ghosting” the first time you write on your board.

As I was working on my tray, I realized that handles would make it so much easier to move around.  I picked up a couple of 50% off handles at Hobby Lobby and attached them to finish the project up.

And that’s it!  I love the way it turned out.  It has the vintage feel I was going for, and it goes so well with my game theme.  You can find the tutorial for the BINGO coasters here.  It looks perfect up in the game room (although, the lighting there is not nearly as good as the backyard).

The handles make it easy to move out to the lawn for a picnic, and it can be used up in the game room for a game board or makeshift homework desk, too.

I love that I only spent $8 (for legs) on the whole thing… and I recycled something that would have otherwise ended up in a landfill.  Perfect!  :-D

 

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BINGO! Coasters for the Game Room

This past weekend, I had 3 projects going on at once.  Crazy, I know.  None of my projects went as planned {shocker!} so I’d move on to the next, trying to avoid yet another trip to Home Depot.  On top of all this, Tater Tot, my youngest, was bored.  That means she was constantly in the garage with me asking what she could do.  So, I did what any good mother would do…  I put her to work on one of my projects.

I needed coasters for the game room up in our loft.  I was tired of finding cups on furniture or niches.  I knew one day, a water ring would be left behind, and that would not make for a happy mama.  I originally thought of making Scrabble tile coasters, but then I remembered I had this up in the game room…

It was a Goodwill find a couple of years ago.  I had this dream of decorating the game room with vintage games and toys.  When I found this, I snatched it up for $3!  When I got home, I opened it up and realized it was not what I was looking for.  So it sat on the shelf, unused, until last weekend.

I cut some 1/4″ plywood I had left over in the garage into squares just bigger than the BINGO cards.  Our cards were 4″x4″ so we cut our pieces 4.5″x4.5″.  Then I had Tater Tot paint them up for me.

Tater Tot’s paint job was not the best.  I was trying not to let my OCD get the best of me, so I just sanded them up a bit.  I actually liked the way they looked so much, that I left them sanded on the corners.

Then I used some spray adhesive to attach the cards to the front of the wooden coasters.  It was so much easier than trying to work with Modge Podge and wait for it to dry.  We just gave each surface a light spray and laid the card on top.

Tater Tot was my photographer during this process, and she may or may not have wandered off with the camera to take pictures of EVERYTHING but our project.  Ha!

At some point, Tater Tot wandered back over to catch me putting a coat of polyurethane on the coasters.  I used oil-based poly because I didn’t have any water-based.  The oil-based will probably give the coasters a yellowish look over time, but I didn’t mind that.  If that’s an issue, water-based poly is your best bet.

After my poly was dry, I cut some squares out of a sheet of cork I had leftover from another project.  I cut the squares just ever so slightly smaller than the wooden coaster.  I applied a coat of my trusty E-6000 to the back of the coaster and one side of the cork square and pressed them together.

I found a few heavy paint cans and glass dishes to weight the coasters down and keep the adhesive bond nice and flat while drying.  I let them dry like that for a couple of hours, and they were ready to use.

The coasters didn’t cost me a dime, only took a few hours, and I have a cute way to protect my furniture in the loft.  And the best part?  They kept Tater Tot busy for a few hours.  Success!

Conquering Cup Clutter

My kitchen looks like this on a daily basis.  I only have three kids.  (sigh)  Days like these make me feel like I am failing to teach my kids important lessons.  Lessons like, “Someday your roommate (or spouse) will not pick up after you like your mom (begrudgingly) has all your life.”  Or “Do you realize how much water we are wasting by washing 10,000,000 cups everyday?”  When I start into those little lessons, I see my children look up at me, blank stares in their eyes, as though I am speaking to them in Charlie Brown grown-up language.  “Wah-wah Wah-wah-wah-wah.”  (another big sigh)

 

So today, I decided to do something about it.  I was going to teach my kids a valuable lesson about organization.  I would teach them to conserve water and be considerate of others.  Crap!  Who am I kidding?  I would just be happy if they’d put their cups away…  Oh yeah, and I was going to get to be crafty, too.  Score!

(Source)

I came across this fabulous idea from Bee in our Bonnet on Pinterest months ago, and had pinned it.  I knew I could make it work in my kitchen, and I already had enough scrap wood in the garage to build a mansion, so picked up a few .$14 tiles and got to work.

I used scrap 1×4′s and 1×6′s for this project, but really you could use any size boards.  The bottom is a 1×6 cut at 29″.  The sides are 1×4′s.  The long sides are cut at 29″ to match the bottom, and the short sides are cut at 7″.  After I made all my cuts, I drilled a few pocket holes in my bottom piece.  Then I used pocket hole screws and glue to make an open box.

Once I got my box built, I realized that it was a little plain for my taste.  I headed to Home Depot (so much for making this a free project) and picked up an 8′ length of trim.  I mitered the corners and glued it along the lip of the box.  Just to make sure the trim stayed put, I put a few brads in with my nail gun.

I used some wood putty to fill my nail holes and cracks, then I gave everything a good sand.  I followed it up with some Kilz primer and a coat of paint.  You could really use whatever paint or primer you have on hand.  I ended up using some black latex I had in the garage, but I kinda wish I’d spray painted the box.  I wasn’t crazy about the brush strokes I ended up with, and spray paint goes on so perfectly.

After my paint was all dry, I followed it up with some finishing wax.  I love this stuff.  You wipe in on with a cheesecloth, wait 15 minutes, and buff it out.  You end up with a hard wax finish that is so smooth and pretty.

After the finishing wax, I took an old sock and some antique gold Rub’n Buff and applied it the corners and trim.  I purchased handles at Hobby Lobby (50% off) and added a little Rub’n Buff to those as well.  This step was a little tricky.  I just wanted a hint of the antique gold, so I started with a very small dab of color.  It’s easier to apply more of this stuff than it is to get it off once it is on.

Then I attached my handles.  The Hobby Lobby handles didn’t come with screws, so I fished around in the garage and found some 1/2″ wood screws.  Make sure not to go much longer than that or you’ll risk the screw poking through the other side of the board.  Because my screws were silver, I just applied a few coats of black nail polish.  Worked like a charm!

For the tiles, I simply designed an initial on my Cricut and cut it out of vinyl.  I made a tile for each member of the family, plus a “G” tile for guests.  If you don’t have a Cricut or Silhouette, check out Your Thoughts Exactly.  My sister-in-law, Jody, can hook you up.

Once I got my tiles all finished, I simply glued them down with some E-6000.  This stuff is awesome.  I applied it to the back of the tiles, set a few heavy glasses on it, and let it sit over night.  My new tray was ready to use by morning.

Every member of the family has their own place to put the cup they are using.  No more excuses!

My counter top clutter is gone…  for now.  My husband (or as I like to call him, the dreamcrusher) thinks the kids won’t use it.  He thinks once the novelty wears off, my counters will be cluttered with cups once again.

But you wanna know a secret?  I’m not too broke up about it.  Because if the kids don’t use it for cups, I can always use it for…

Flowers, or…

…decorative accents, or…

…greenery, or… I just may need to make another for the dining room table.

 

 

Linking up to:

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Outdoor Pillows {On the Cheap}

I’m sure you’ve noticed the super cute outdoor pillow on my lounge.  Let me tell you, not only are these pillows super cute, they are also super cheap.  I was shopping for outdoor pillows and could not believe how expensive they were.  I couldn’t fathom spending that kind of money on outdoor pillows, especially since there was a 65% chance they’d end up in the pool at some point, so I made my own.

I headed down to JoAnn’s and picked from their large selection of outdoor fabric, which happened to be on sale.  Score!  I really probably only used 1/2 a yard for two pillows, but I bought several yards to make other outdoor accessories.  Now you can only spot clean this fabric, because it has a special coating that makes it stain and fade resistant.  There was no need to make removable cover, so I didn’t need to buy zippers or velcro.

I wanted my pillows to be a little more substantial than just some fabric and fiberfill.  So to give these pillows some weight, I took some old towels (one per pillow) and folded it to the approximate size I wanted.  Then I measured my pillow and added 2″ all the way around.  For example, since my towel measured 15″ long and 10″ wide, I cut the fabric 19″ long x 14″ wide.  This accounts for the seam allowance and any fiberfill you might add to “poof” out the pillows.

After my pillow pieces were cut, I pinned everything right sides together and stitched up the four sides, leaving a pretty big opening to turn it right side out.  Then I serged all the edges, although you could just clip the seams and corners, and turned it right side out.  I put my folded towel inside and filled any gaps with fiberfill, making the pillow as fluffy as I wanted.

After the pillow looked the way I wanted it to, I pinned the opening and whip-stitched it closed.  I had to play with the towel and fiberfill a bit to get it to look the way I like pillows to look, but that was really the toughest part of this project.  The fabric was $9.99/yard, and I used about 1/4 yard per pillow.  I had the old towels and fiberfill.  These pillows basically cost me $2.50 a piece, which is a far cry from the $20 ones I was looking at.  The project was SO easy and SO cheap, I almost feel like it wasn’t a real project.

Simple and cheap, but they add a lot to the space.  Go ahead!  Grab some old towels and make a few yourself.

My New {DROP CLOTH} Curtains

This month I am on a mission.  The kids went back to school last week, and I finally have some time to focus on the house.  I love our family room, but quite honestly, it’s a little cold.  It’s not near cozy enough… yet.  The tile, although great for pets and kids, is not very warm and inviting.  So this month, I am going to attempt to cozy up the family room.  First item on the list was curtains.  I don’t have a very good before picture, but trust me, this room felt cold and empty.

Since I am not working with an unlimited budget, I couldn’t buy those Restoration Hardware drapes I had an unhealthy obsession with.  But I had been noticing that people were doing similar things with drop cloths, and for a much better price.

This was the brand of drop cloth I used, and I got them at Home Depot.  I noticed they were all a slightly different color, so I took a little time to sort through them and find the ones that matched up the best.

Then I got them home and washed them.  I washed and dried these drop cloths TWICE on the hottest cycle my machines would do.  I knew I’d need to wash them again at some point, and I didn’t want any shrinking to occur.  I held them up to my curtain rods to measure them both before and after the wash, and there was quite a bit of shrinking that happened after washing, so you will want to account for that when you buy your cloths, as there were several different lengths to choose from.

Once the cloths were all clean and dry, I ran an iron over them.  I knew I wanted them to be a bit more tailored than some I’d seen on the web, so I used pinch pleat tape to achieve that look.  You can find it at upholstery and craft stores.  I got mine at Hobby Lobby.  I simply pinned it in place and sewed it along the top of the curtain.

A couple of things to remember…  You are going to be inserting pleater hooks into the pockets in the tape.  Make sure you don’t sew over those pockets.  This shouldn’t be a problem if you sew as closely to the top and bottom of the tape as possible.  My tape actually had lines for me to follow, which made it easy peasy.  Also, make sure the pocket openings are pointing to the bottom of the curtain, not the top.  This will make sense in a minute.

Now once you have your tape sewn in place, you are going to insert pleater hooks into the pockets in the pinch pleat tape…

…just like this.  I inserted an end hook, and then I skipped two pockets.  I inserted pleater hooks across the top of the curtain like so, skipping two pockets between hooks.  I’ve seen pleater hooks at JoAnn’s and Hobby Lobby.  I got mine at Hobby Lobby, and they were $2.49 for a 14 pack.

You kinda have to play with the pleats a bit to make them lay the way you want them to, but once I had everything the way I wanted it, I gave it a quick steam iron.  Then I was ready to hang them.  Now I think that you are supposed to have a special curtain rod to hang pinch pleat curtains, but they were expensive, and I’m cheap.  I just bought drapery rings with clips from Lowe’s.  You can just clip the drapery clip directly to the pleater hook and hang them that way.  I ended up needing a touch more length to satisy my OCD, so I actually attached large closed jump rings (for jewlery) to the clips and hung my pleater hooks from the rings.

I did want to mention that these drop cloths were no where near consistent in their sizing.  I know they are cheap drop cloths, and for their intended purpose they don’t need to be, but for curtains, well, it was a different story.  There were a couple of times that I needed to make alterations.  Instead of cutting the drop cloth, I would simply mark where I needed the cut, nick it with the scissors, and rip it by hand all the way down.  This resulted in a nice, clean line that I knew was perfectly straight.  Then I would serge the raw edge and finish my seam the way I needed to.

Here’s a look at the finished curtains.  That’s the empty window and side table from the before picture.

And one last view…

My final cost per curtain panel was under $25.  The Restoration Hardware ones were $169 per panel.  I didn’t even spend that to dress all four windows!  Which means, in the end, I have more money to put back into the space…  and that makes me happy.

If You Build a Girl a Lounge Chair… (she’s going to want an umbrella stand to go with it.)

It’s true.  I couldn’t just have a lounge chair.  I had to have the matching umbrella stand.  Because I didn’t want to spend $300 on it, when I knew I could build it myself, I headed on over to ana-white.com.  Her umbrella stand plan was perfect, and I was super inspired by the Shanty2Chic girls’ version of this stand, so I made my shopping list and headed out.

I used pine on this project as well.  I did the same thing with the table that I did with my lounge chair.  I set up a stop on my saw, so that all the slats were cut to the same length.  This was a fairly easy project.   I cut all my pieces, drilled my pocket holes, gave everything a quick sand, and joined it all together with my pocket hole screws and trusty glue.

Sometimes, when it is 113° in your garage, the dining room floor makes a perfect workspace.  I used several clamps to get everything all nice and square, which helped tremendously.  I would suggest using as many screws as you can get into this baby, epsecially when attaching the bottom trim, and this is why…

I applied the finish to this piece before I finished my lounge, so I set it outside under the covered patio until I had the lounge done.  I finished this piece exactly like I did the lounge:  2 coats of Behr deck stain in Russet, followed by a good coat of Minwax Helmsman Indoor/Outdoor Spar Urethane.  When I went to move this piece over with the lounge a few days later, I noticed that the trim had warped and cracked, leaving exposed pine near the base.  With as much water as this will see, being by the pool and all, I gave it a quick sand and recoated it.  There was just no way to fix the warping without taking off the trim, and potentially ruining the whole piece.  I think (and I’m no expert here) that this could have been avoided if I’d attached the trim a little better.  I was afraid of screw holes and putty, so I used screws from the inside to attach the trim to the legs.  I’m sure more screws would have been better here.  The glue and few screws that I used simply didn’t prevent the trim from warping on me… and I was pretty sure the wood was nice and dry before I began, too.  (sigh)

Now, I didn’t get a picture of this next part, but to hold the umbrella in place, I simply took an old chlorine bucket and filled it with concrete.  Then, as it was setting, we put a piece of PVC pipe in the concerte, so the umbrella would rest in that bucket, but still be removeable.  When that was all set, we spray painted it brown so it wouldn’t show through the slats of the stand.  Easy-peasy…  unless you are trying to move it, and then you pretty much need to be an olympic weight-lifter.  Yikes!

Not long after I set this out, we got a good rain storm… an anomaly for sure.  I was concerned about how this finish would hold up to water, but so far so good.  The water beaded off the finish perfectly.  I just wiped everything down, and it was great.  In some of these close-ups, you can see that the finish isn’t perfect.  I got brush strokes, no matter whether I used a natural bristle brush or a sponge brush.  Once the Minwax was applied, it really highlighted those brush strokes, so if that is going to bug you, you should try spraying it on for sure.

All in all, it was a quick and easy project.  I am the kids are already using it to set their books, snacks, and drinks on while they are out by the pool.  Success!

November Cakes… in August

Let me introduce you to my BFF, Maggie.  (My husband is rolling his eyes right now.)  Okay, so we aren’t technically BFF’s.  In fact, Maggie has no idea who I am, but thanks to her Twitter feed, I know a lot about her.  So every time she says something witty on her blog or Twitter, I always tell my family all about Maggie’s (we’re on a first name basis) funny stories.

Maggie also happens to be my favorite YA author.  I first fell in love with her storytelling when I read Lament.  Most recently, she has released a fabulous book called The Scorpio Races.  It is my new favorite book.  I love it fervently.  In fact, I love it so much, that I allowed my daughter, Bug, to read it.  Bug is an avid reader, but she is not yet 12, so I am very picky about content.  In fact, I haven’t let her read some of Maggie’s other books (Shiver) just yet.  Sorry, Maggie.  Bug loves The Scorpio Races as much as I do.  So when Maggie posted the recipe for the November Cakes that make an appearance in The Scorpio Races, we knew we MUST make them.

We followed the recipe pretty closely, except that I don’t have a stand mixer.  This meant that Bug and I had to knead the dough by hand for a reeeaaallly long time.  We also had to add a little more flour to make it more manageable.  I’m not sure that step would have been necessary if we weren’t doing it by hand, but we did add about 3/4 cup more flour than called for.

Once the dough had risen the requisite hour, we rolled it out spread out the filling, and made our rolls.  I softened the butter for the filling, rather than melting it.  Then I mixed it with the orange extract and spread it on the dough.  It was easier to spread that way, and I didn’t have to worry about it running all over the place.

These were very similar to cinnamon rolls.  In fact, they roll up the same way, but are baked in muffin tins.  Once they were all baked up, we added the glaze, which was soooo  yummy.  There may or may not have been lots of little fingers trying to mop up the leftover glaze.

I think we nailed it.  They were a great first bread roll recipe for Bug.  They were so yummy.  We had them for dessert…  and for breakfast the next day.  I know they are more of an autumn-ish recipe, but these were light enough for summer.  They were much less sweet than my cinnamon rolls, which made them devilishly easy to keep eating.  I highly recommend reading the book and baking up a batch of these yummy rolls.  Even if you don’t get around to the book (GASP!), these cakes are worth the effort.

DIY Poolside Lounges

This is our second summer in the new house.  We really should have outdoor furniture by now, but it so darned expensive.  I was in love with Pottery Barn’s Chesapeake lounges, but quite honestly I couldn’t bring myself to spend that kind of money on furniture that would most likely take a bit lot of abuse from the kids and animals.

Image from potterybarn.com

Enter the fabulous Ana White at ana-white.com.  Her plans for the Outdoor Chaise Lounge really inspired me–and led me to Rayan Turner at thedesignconfidential.com.  Rayan’s plan for her Chesapeake Lounger knock-off were an immense help.  I actually merged the two plans and took elements from each to build my ideal lounger.  Here’s how I did it.

I used all the measurements from Rayan’s plan.  I headed down to my local big box stores to purchase my lumber.  This was the first project I’ve ever attempted with my Kreg Jig, so I went with pine in case I screwed it up.  I couldn’t believe how much the prices went up for redwood, and I also realized that a lot of the boards I’d need (like about a million 1×3′s) weren’t available in redwood.  So I picked through all the pine in an attempt to find some decent boards, loaded up my cart, and headed home to make my cuts.

Once home, I realized I was going to need a lot of boards cut to the same length.  My husband suggested we clamp a stop at the end of my saw to make sure all the boards were exactly the same.  I cannot stress how much time this saved me.  I didn’t need to measure each board individually.  I just slid each board until it butted up against the stop and made the cut.  They all ended up exactly the same length.  Hooray!

For the most part, I followed Rayan’s plans pretty closely.  I did choose to reinforce the legs with a piece of 2×4 cut to fit the corners.  I knew my kids were going to use these chairs as diving boards, bases for games of tag, and probably even trampolines.  These babies had to withstand some serious kid action, hence the reason for the extra stability in the legs.

Once I got the whole thing put together, I checked and double checked to make sure it all fit up.  Once I was sure things were in place, I began puttying holes and sanding the whole thing down really well.  I had sanded most of the slats before I began putting the lounge together, but it still needed some final sanding.  I started with about 150 grit sandpaper, and polished it up with 220 grit.

After the lounge was sanded, it was time to finish this baby.  I knew that since I’d decided to work with pine, I was facing some major challenges.  Pine is not known for it’s durability outdoors.  For that reason, I really wanted something that was going to protect it from the elements.  I went with this Behr deck stain in Russet.  I made sure to coat every surface, even those that wouldn’t show, and then followed it up with several coats of Minwax Helmsman Indoor/Outdoor Spar Urethane.

Now, I will say that I am not sure how well this will hold up.  I have read some terrible reviews of this Behr stain, but that was AFTER I’d already applied it.  I have always loved Behr indoor paint, so I’m hoping for the same quality in this deck stain.  I’ll be sure to follow up in a few months and let you know how it is holding up.

It’s important to note, that if you choose to paint your outdoor furniture on the backyard lawn, remove the plastic promptly.  Otherwise, you will be left with a large brown burn spot on the grass, and your husband will not likely forgive you for a very long time.  Oops!

Once the finish was dry, I put the lounge together.  I used 2-inch brass hinges to attach the lower seat to the back rest.  I used those same type of hinges to attach the stand to the back rest.  Then I attached the seat to the frame supports using my pocket hole screws.  I liked how Ana’s plan had the seat placed just below the outer frame.  I ended up dropping the inner frame on my lounges down an inch or so to allow the back rest and lower seat to sit below the rim of the outer frame.

I also added an additional support to the frame, just underneath the back rest, so that when the it laid flat, the back rest stand wouldn’t hang unsupported.  I just used a 1×3 and a few pocket hole screws.

I searched high and low for cushions that wouldn’t break the bank, but I ended up ordering the cushions from Pottery Barn.  They were $89 each, and there was free shipping.  They ended up being comparable, price-wise, to the other cushions I had looked at online and in stores.

My favorite feature, though, has got to be the wooden wheels!  I love them.  We made them on our table saw, using a jig we constructed.  Then we used our plunge router and another jig to make the recessed decorative edge.  I’ll be posting a tutorial on how we did it all very shortly.

Overall, I was very pleased with how they turned out.  I spent about $65 on the lounge itself, which was hundreds shy of the Pottery Barn price.  Now I just need to brave the Arizona heat an make the other one.